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 Post subject: Share Your Modifications
PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:18 am 
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 7:32 pm
Posts: 5762
Location: Kernow-Tyr-Gwyr-Gweryn
Car Model: Citroen Berlingo Van 1.8D
Modifications, this thread is a place to list your cars modifications the results and the costs if you want to own up to them. It is not meant to be any more of a guide than just providing examples of what others have done to their cars. Please only post your modifications, this isnít meant to be a shiny cars thread but a reference for everyone.

My own 1996 NG900

Image

I was lucky with my NG900 SE Turbo coupe because it was in very good condition, despite its 155k miles, when I bought it, as it came with a full Saab dealer service history. It wouldn't be sensible to modify any car that was not already in tiptop condition IMO.

Brakes
Really are the first place to start if you plan on increasing the performance of you car. I havenít done anything radical to mine though apart from Mintex C-tech grooved and dimpled discs at the front combined with Pagid fast road pads and Goodridge S/S flexi brake lines all round. This combination has definitely improved stopping distances as the car will pull up very quickly but the feel of the brakes has changed as well, they feel a little more wooden without the sharp initial bite of the standard setup. But having said that I feel that the braking has been improved substantially. I suppose that was inevitable with different discs, flexi lines and pads but it is something to consider along with the fact the grooved discs do make more noise. Long term plans for me included a fitting a new master cylinder that is currently sitting in the shed.

Handling
A lot has been written about the comparative quality of the handling of the NG900ís and I donít really see the need to repeat it here but lets just say there is room for improvement.
My cars steering was woolly, there was a lot of body roll and it torque steered quite alarmingly, part of the problem was that the car suspension had covered 155K miles.
I fitted an Abbott Racing Rear Anti Roll Bar which brought the back end well under control and helped sharpen up the steering a little. Eibach Pro Springs, which lowered the car by 40mm, also stiffed up the handling and reduced body roll further. I was advised and found that the Eibachs were a good compromise as I didn't lose much in terms of ride quality for the above benefits. Whilst changing the springs, it was sensible to fit new shocks. After a bit of research and an answer from Eibach themselves they recommended fitting new OEM spec Sachs shocks, so thatís exactly what I did. They work well together but it would not have been advisable to stick with the original shocks as they had already done 155K with the movement range of the original springs.
To completely cure the woolly steering, torque steer and poor directional stability I fitted an Abbott Racing Viggen Rescue Kit. The kit consisted of a steering rack clamp and brace, front sub frame brace, steering control arm poly bushes and roller bearing top mounted ball joints. It was an expensive item at £550 but it, more than anything else really transformed the car. The steering is lighter and more precise, it is completely stable and doesnít drift at all on motorways and most importantly of all it just doesn't torque steering in the dry. You have to be more careful in the wet though. I can't praise the VRK highly enough in terms of what it delivers, weather I would buy it again is another matter. In my opinion all of the above modifications have completely transformed the way my car handles. It feels nimble with lots and lots of grip inspiring confidence in all situations.
I have kept the original 16" Viking wheels as I like them and think they suit the car, I am running Viking Pro Tech 500 tyres which I prefer to my previous Pirelli P6000ís.

The Engine
I originally had my cars ECU modified with a Superchip that did exactly what Superchips stated (225 BHP and 232 ft lbs of torque) that was verified at Power Engineering. That was pleasing but it did highlight other areas that needed attention. Most noticeably was the handling of the car mentioned above, it turned my car into a torque steering, wheel spinning, body rolling beast that was hard to drive, so if I were ever to go on a NG900 tuning adventure again I would definitely sort the brakes and a handling first. Also as a result of the Superchipping the car, even with all the extra power, felt strangled like it wasnít breathing as it should. So I fitted a Viggen intercooler as I had read that the standard NG item starts suffering from heat saturation at around the 220 BHP mark. This is a fairly easy swop as all you need is the intercooler itself and two connecting pipes, job done and supposedly good until 300BHP.
Also the NG's air box is a known restriction. So I tried it with a J&R performance air filter but that didnít make much if any difference, also at the time I had read quite a bit about how such filters were letting particulates through that were big enough to cause damage to the turbo vanes so I went back to the standard paper filter. I then set about modifying the box itself but cutting off the original 2" snorkel and fitting a 2.5" pipe, also drilling several holes in the bottom of the box before the filter.
Image
This helped and noticeably improved the breathing IMO.
The next step for me was to fit a 3" JT racing cat back exhaust as the original was rotten, that also provided a noticeable improvement and sounded wonderful as a bonus. I kept the original down pipe initially but sourced and fitted another standard pipe with the cat cut out. That also made a noticeable improvement and saw the fuel consumption improve by 2-4 mpg overall. Eventually I would like to fit the 3" JT front pipe but I have read that there are clearance issues with the VRK front sub frame brace, which is low enough as it is on my car.
The extra BHP finished off the, worn wastegate actuator and by pass valve. I replaced the WGA with a new standard item and the BPV with a Forge item which are both working fine, mind you I could have saved a few quid by buying a standard BPV as I have since found out that they are fine for at least 300BHP when serviceable. With the modifications to date I am hoping for
250bhp and 260 ft lbs at the next Rolling Road day, but we shall see. For more than that and I think I would have to further upgrade the ECU, turbo, clutch, brakes and wheels to fit over the bigger brakes. Also I would want to gas flow the cylinder head. All of which is expensive stuff, I donít know if I want to go that route as I have a c900 to play with as well now. Also to be considered is the reliability factor of higher tuning. To date my car has covered 20K miles in its current trim without an issue, but it has to be recognised that the more you tune the car the quicker it will wear out. This of course depends greatly on how you drive and maintain it to.

Interior
My car came with the standard grey velour innards so I went about sourcing a leather interior for it. To my surprise it wasnít that easy a task at the time but I eventually found a Sand Beige one for sale in Bristol, so I fitted that along with a wood look dash kit from Ebay and a BSR 1.5 bar boost gauge.
Image

Audio
I wanted more power from my cars puny 7w per channel head unit but didnít want to lose the standard appearance. The NG900's integrated Clarion head unitsí pre outs are in the form of an 8 pin din arrangement which is a difficult size to find a connector for. I ended up making my own pre out cable by cannibalising 2 x 5 pin din plugs for their innards. Your can get some help in doing this here http://www.lehigh.edu/~cak7/Audio/Preamp.html
Once I made the cable I used it to supply an Alpine V12 Amp which powered the following; Pioneer 16cm TS-E1695 speakers in the doors and some Pioneer 6" x 9" TS-A6988 speakers in the rear. To fit the door speakers you will need the Saab fitting rings or you can make up you own arrangement if the fitting rings arenít there. They werenít on my car but I got a couple of the rings with the new interior. The rear speakers fitted in place of the standard ones but had to mounted from below the brackets rather than sit in them like the standard units. I also fitted a twin 10î sub box. To finish it off I fitted some small 3.5 cm Infinity Kappa speakers in the dash with base blockers and powered them from then head unit rather than the amp. All of this worked well together after being set up. But after a couple of years I got fed up with the lack of boot space so removed the amp and subs. I now power the rears and dash speakers with the standard head unit and will fit a smallish amp to power the door speakers. It was a good project that I enjoyed doing but practicality won the day in my case. Besides how loud do you need to have Radio 4 :oops:

_________________
2011 Sukida SK125-2
1997 Citroen Berlingo 1.8D Van
1999 Volvo V70 2.5i


Last edited by Saul on Sat Nov 12, 2005 9:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:13 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:09 pm
Posts: 393
never mind radio 4. wot you want is a essex baded pirate radio station blasting out of ur stereo.

getting arb as my first mod, then goin for a clamp and brace


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:16 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:09 pm
Posts: 393
based not baded. doh. long day just finished antenatal clinic. too many pregnant tums!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2004 2:43 pm
Posts: 6202
Car Model: lada
Good thread.

So far... c900 vert. 1992


Bodywork.

Polished off the rubbish paint someone had applied. will need to get some pro-applied paint soon. Replaced the number plates as there were two of each on the front and the back (i.e. one stuck over the top of the other !!) polished the front grill using buffing soap and a buffing wheel. Changed the indicators for clear indicators. Changed the 16" aeros for a clean, well conditioned set. swapped the twin-tail pipe (and the rest of the exhaust) for a standard tail-pipe. Used Auto-Glym hood conditioning kit on the roof which worked well and cleaned it up nicely, got rid of the horrible green bits. Damm good clean also. Now looking ok - apart from where it has been abused in the past. Removed SAAB badges from side of bonnet.


Engine.

Changed the oil and oil filter - obviously hadn’t been done in ages!! changed the spark-plugs which also looked like they'd never been changed!! Then removed the CAT and replaced the rest of the exhaust - 2.5" all the way. Tweaked the APC up a bit so the rise rate and max boost are both up. Like it how it is but might need to tweak it a bit. million times better than when I picked it up !!


Accessories.

The convertible has better speakers than the coupe so I didn't change those but the head-unit didn't do MP3's so I changed that for one that did. stereo works well enough now. fitted a Clifford alarm which does remote start, shock sensing and proximity sensing - like the features - but really only wanted remote locking, have that now so I'm happy. Changed the mats for some tailor-made ones from http://www.autostyle.co.uk got the perfect fit by drawing around my OEM set and sending them a set of templates.


Cleaning.

As mentioned earlier; I used Auto-Glym hood cleaner to remove the dirt patches and green stuff from the hood. I also used Auto-Glym paint renovator to remove the (halfords) paint that had been applied to the bonnet and boot and now have relatively good paint - having said that - there is a requirement for a professional finish - currently lacking. :oops:

Started polishing my aeros but it's a tough job and I got to the point where I'd almost finished one wheel down to 320 grit but was still faced with the issue of how to polish around the back of the valve and just decided to give up. I've had a quote to professionally finish these wheels for circa £200 including the still-valves.

Glass was "thilthy" so this had a good clean and you can actually see through it now.

Door-cards; have only done one of them at this point but I used auto-glym intensive tar remover to get rid of the built-up dirt and it's looking clean. still need to do the passenger side.



Overall - in summary.

I cleaned it a lot, fitted an alarm and gave it a service - it is now - quite seriously - twice the car it was before !!

Edit: Hey, what about some pictures... I know it's been 2 and a half years since I posted... but there's nothing wrong with editing a 2.5 year old post...! Is there?

Image

Image

Image


Last edited by ejenner on Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 6:29 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:09 pm
Posts: 393
well 2day changed old rubber flexis to stainless. in process fluid change as well. pedal irmer but braking is noticeably better. well worth £60. buying longer bolts for second outer arb 2moro. mods dont have to be expensive!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2005 12:37 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:09 pm
Posts: 393
second arb fitted. wow the difference. again a cheap and simple mod that is very effective


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2005 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 2:49 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Cambridgeshire. UK
Hi. Here ya go...

Model Year:
1994 Imola Red Ng 900 5 door with black full leather trim heated seats and electric sun roof.

Model:
16v se Turbo

Transmission:
Manual

Mileage:
82000

Location:
Cambridge UK

Engine Mods:
Piper X Monster spun Alloy Cone filter, 76mm Red SFS silicone inlet pipe.
Forge DV4 Red Alloy DV. Red Silicone DV 'T' piece.
MBC +A. MBC Tapped at TB.
Abbot SS Catless DP.
Jettex SS full exhaust system.
3.7 bar Adjustable Fuel regulator
Home done Polyurethane front mount.
Viggen IC Awaiting fitting (still boxed in the shed )
Oh yeah all red silicone Vac lines

Chassis Mods:
Koni Adjustable shockers
Eibach pro springs
Double stack rear bars
23mm AR bar on the way from the states

Other Mods:
ATE power discs (Atom groove pattern)
MP Short shifter
Leather shift knob
Smoked side repeaters
Imola red grill.
Rear spoiler colour coded. Belive me it makes a world of difference.

Waiting are the smooth mirror covers for colour coding

Also going up to a 308mm Vectra GSI brake conversion. Got the calipers, discs soon. Just need the hubs turning down to fit the discs to the early 900.

Yeah baby.. :D


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 Post subject: My two
PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 9:30 pm
Posts: 2294
Location: Busby, Glasgow
Car Model: French derv/Red T16S
1996 9000 CSE Anniversarry 2.0LPT

Apprx 125K finished in amethyst with std anni gear/ cream leather/alpaca.

ENGINE

Speedparts ECU
Forge atmos BOV
Silicone VAC lines
Full turbo-tail 3" JT decat exhaust

aprx 230 BHP

SUSPENSION

Deep dish 16" super Aero's
Abbott racing springs
Poly F/R ARB
Poly R wishbone bushes
Poly engine mounts
Ploy Droplinks
Planned 30% uprated Bilstein sports dampers
Planned SAS 25mm rear ARB
Planned ARM strut brace

EXTERIOR

smoked saab side repeaters
debadged "SAAB 9000 CSE 2.0t"

INTEROIR ICE

Blaupunkt digiciever
Blaupunkt DIN 5CD changer

NEW BITS
Discs, pads/ clutch, slave cylinder/ sump/ headgasket/ many engine parts
______________________________________________
1991 900 S Aero
aprx 115K

ENGINE

Abbott EFi ECU
Abbott chargecooler
Bosch 3.3 Bar FPR
Silicone vac lines
Forge atmos BOV
Forge wastegate actuator
Abbott turbo to tail SS exhaust, de-cat with carlsson twin pipe

Rolling road tested at 210 BHP

SUSPENSION

Abbott springs
Koni dampers
Poly ARB bushes
16" Super Aero's Toyo T1-Rs

EXTERIOR

saab smoked side repeaters
whaletail spoiler

INTERIOR/ ICE

Winchester woodpack, inc rear ashtray
SE grey leather
Speedparts calibrated boost gauge
New Enzo Nardi wooden 3 spoke steering wheel
wooden gearnob

NEW BITS

head gasket/ clutch/ slave cylinder/ gearbox with type 7 primaries

_________________
precision through engineering
_________________
2 ex 9-5
2 ex 9-3
3 ex 9000
4 ex c900


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 12:15 pm
Posts: 134
Location: Hove, Actually
Saab 9000 Aero manual

Speedparts Stage 3, comprising of ecu remap, JR air filter and full 3" exhaust.
Forge atmospheric dump valve
Forge Wastegate actuator

Koni dampers with Abbott springs
Abbott poly front wishbone bushes
1 poly engine mount bush
Speedparts front strut brace
SAS 25mm rear ARB with poly bushes
Abbott (read Quaife) Limited Slip Diff
17" wheels with Toyo Proxes T1S

325mm grooved disks with 4 pot red Brembos and braided hoses.
Brembo rear disks.

Power wise, I am getting around 280bhp and 305lb torque.

As you can see, I have concentrated a lot of effort on suspension and braking mods. Mainly because levels of performance way exceed the capabilities of the standard car.

One lesson learnt was to remove a load of poly bushes I had fitted. Ride was really harsh, with little difference to handling. Strut brace made a surprising difference to handling; rear ARB made a huge difference.

_________________
ex Saab 9000 Aero
ex Saab 900 Tandino 16S
Ovlov 850R estate


Last edited by JezFrost on Thu Aug 04, 2005 9:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 12:15 pm
Posts: 134
Location: Hove, Actually
Oh, forgot the stezza:

Front Boston Acoustics coaxial units
Rear 6x9 MB Quarts
12" JL free air sub
2x100w bridged Caliber Power amp
1x70w Alpine Power amp
Pioneer head unit - can't remember the model, but the flash retro styled one. :D

_________________
ex Saab 9000 Aero
ex Saab 900 Tandino 16S
Ovlov 850R estate


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:42 am 
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Joined: Thu May 13, 2004 11:55 am
Posts: 4161
Location: trossachs
Car Model: Turbo xx
Ok here is mine
started off as a 1994 9000 Aero with TCS (manual)

Engine

Fully re-built @200k and again at 270,000 (post cadwell....)
with shot peened con rods ..verdi now
lightened and balanced crankshaft
matchweighted piston/con rod assemblies ...woosner forged ones now
Radically ported head with oversize exhaust valves,re-built ported, 3 angle valve seats
30% uprated valve springs
Lightened flywheel
(all done at ctm performance )(2nd rebuild at engine services)
rebuilt using new chains/water pump/oil pump
Turbo garret gttb30 with a/r of .86
Maptun stage 6 cams
Vernier Cam sprockets speedparts replaced with Maptun
3 bar map sensor
Forge atmos BOV ...Now synchronic
Prototype tubular exhaust manifold and fully 3" downpipe
4" induction pipe
Mc 60 maxogen air filter
Custom pipe from i/c to inlet manifold
custom pipe from turbo to i/c
Maptun 50 mm intercooler
3X fuel pump
630 cc/min injectors
Maptun custom software
8's spark plugs
silicone hoses throughout
Trying n/a manifold ...not much success at the moment

485 hp and 470 ftlbs of torq..... bit more maybe ..?

Chassis
Quaife lsd
Quaife 6 speed box
Quaife 4.05 final drive
335 mm brakes with AP calipers
Braided hoses f/r
ferodo ds 2500 pads
strut brace
sas 1" rear a/r bar
Polybushed everything bar the eye bush on the front a/r bar
Magic camber bolts on the front struts
Koni adjustables front and rear
speedparts strut brace (modified to clear manifold )
Roc springs
17/7.5 et 30 team dynamics race 1.2 wheels
235/40 zr 17 Toyo T1r's

Inside
Sony 1000 mtf "dancing dolphin" mp3 head unit
denison ice link i-pod interface
1000 w 4 channel amp feeding the front JBL speakers
and mission subwoofer
standard rear speakers (love em)
snooper remote
Laser Parking sensor
blue tooth hands free


Outside
Bare metal respray in "intergalactic black" (saab black with icepearl)
De-badged
Hid headlamp conversion


Last edited by ylee coyote on Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:56 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:48 am 
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Joined: Wed May 19, 2004 8:06 pm
Posts: 6815
Location: The Nut Hut
And vernier sprockets, Ylee :) How much difference did they make by the way? I've got mine now and it fits the cam this time - not that I'm planning on going anywhere near your levels - I'll be happy with a nice round 200bhp :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:21 am 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Wed May 19, 2004 7:07 pm
Posts: 422
Location: GM900 2.0SET Talledaga & 2.0 CDXS
YLEE How often do you replace the TCS bulb 'cause I reckon thats illuminated quite a lot of the time!

nice stats 429.2 hp!! :shock:

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Any Views or information posted by myself should be seen as personal comments and should not be treated as opinions from my employers or Saab GB Ltd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:49 am 
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Joined: Thu May 13, 2004 11:55 am
Posts: 4161
Location: trossachs
Car Model: Turbo xx
Oops forgot about them
Difference
Quite considerable as you cannot dial in the maptun cams (oops forgot about them too) without them

I did run it without keys in the camshaft for a while and they did slip :shock:

First hp run as modified was a disapointing 340 hp and the car ran like a pig
doing the cams brought it to 403 hp and running very sweetly
the manifold another 30 hp

I reckon the next set of tweaking (turbo to i/c pipe) and software should take it comfortably over 460 and the magic 200 hp/l


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 19, 2004 8:06 pm
Posts: 6815
Location: The Nut Hut
Ouch, that's a massive difference! I'll be happy with an extra 5 :)

Of course if it's a percentage difference, you'd get a better return anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 11:13 pm
Posts: 1454
Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex
Car Model: 2006 9-5 Aero Estate
ylee coyote wrote:
Oops forgot about them
Difference
Quite considerable as you cannot dial in the maptun cams (oops forgot about them too) without them

I did run it without keys in the camshaft for a while and they did slip :shock:

First hp run as modified was a disapointing 340 hp and the car ran like a pig
doing the cams brought it to 403 hp and running very sweetly
the manifold another 30 hp

I reckon the next set of tweaking (turbo to i/c pipe) and software should take it comfortably over 460 and the magic 200 hp/l


If you don't mind me asking, how much has all this cost you?? :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 8:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 13, 2004 11:55 am
Posts: 4161
Location: trossachs
Car Model: Turbo xx
I would tell you but some-one else might read this.. if you get my drift

But to give you an idea you could probably buy a new 9-3 for the money I have spent (just)
But in defence only 2/3 of that was making it go faster
the rest was "preventative maintenance"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 8:51 pm 
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Light Pressure Turbo

Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:09 pm
Posts: 393
ylee coyote wrote:
But to give you an idea you could probably buy a new 9-3 for the money I have spent (just)
But in defence only 2/3 of that was making it go faster
the rest was "preventative maintenance"


:shock:
:shock:

goodness. mind you car did make fantastic sound on the rollers


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 11:13 pm
Posts: 1454
Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex
Car Model: 2006 9-5 Aero Estate
bish wrote:
mind you car did make fantastic sound on the rollers


That must have been before it filled the room with smoke. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 3:43 pm
Posts: 4692
Location: surbiton
May as well add mine:

9k Aero '96

SUSPENSION
Abbott springs
Koni Adjustables
SAS 1" rear ARB (comes with poly bushes)
Poly front butterfly bushes
Poly front ARB bushes
Standard (new) front drop link bushes
Elk strut brace

ENGINE (ECU due soon 8) )
Maptun Stage 4
Allard 50mm I/C
465ml green giants
3 map sensor
forge dump valve
Sachs uprated pressure plate/new clutch
JT 3" system
Dynatech 3" race cat
Powerflex gearbox bush
1 x superflex torque arm bush 1 + new standard bush
ITG foam filter
Air box mod with 5" intake funnel (3.25" dia internal) - Looks a bit like Abbotts kevlar thingy.

BRAKES:
Braided hoses
Brembo discs
Pagid fast road pads

Everything done on best VFM - although I have kind of broken the trend by going for stage 4. Stage 3 being a 'cheap' +60bhp and Stage 4 a relatively expensive +25bhp on top. Couldnt resist 306bhp :)


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