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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 1:25 pm 
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Location: North Yorkshire
Car Model: Skoda Octavia vRS
So, after a month of driving the Turbo X, I came to the same conclusion that the standard speakers are poop!
I've upgraded the dash speakers to Mac Audio 3.5" 2 way coaxials, which sound a bit better.
Next I'll tackle the door speakers. From what I've read, they are 6.5" woofers but only 2ohm. Which may be part of the problem. 4ohm woofers maybe improve the sound quality a little.
Will also stick some sound proofing in the doors whilst I have the door cards off.

Anybody recommend some 6.5" woofers? Want something decent without breaking the bank.

I have the SW, so rear speakers are in the tailgate. Anybody with a SW upgraded the rears?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:49 pm 
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Location: Maidstone, Kent
Car Model: Saab 9-3 1.9 diesel Estate
I have got a question linked to this subject. I have the 9-3 57 plate estate and it has the grills for the 7 speakers but it only has the 4 standard poo speakers two in the rear which I think is impossible to change as they are build in to the rear door and two in the front.

You have 5 grills in the front one in the doors for your bass then 1 in the middle of the dash for your midrange then your two normal spots where the current standard ones are at the moment.

My question is. I was hoping to have a 3 way component system by hertz at the front. I am trying to work out where to place the mid and high's as there's only one space for 1 midrange. Any ideas on this please if you understand me. I was thinking of having these new speakers amped up by having the amp where the space saver spare wheel is. Obvious I take the spare wheel out to make room for this. I might add a sub in future depending on money.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:59 pm 
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Location: South Wales & London
Car Model: JZW stage 5 9³ v6 Aero
crazydjben wrote:
My question is. I was hoping to have a 3 way component system by hertz at the front. I am trying to work out where to place the mid and high's as there's only one space for 1 midrange. Any ideas on this please if you understand me. I was thinking of having these new speakers amped up by having the amp where the space saver spare wheel is. Obvious I take the spare wheel out to make room for this. I might add a sub in future depending on money.


Same issue here but my Sinfoni mids are big chunky 4" ones so no way will they fit in the dash without cutting it to bits. For 4" mids they're huge!

I guess the easiest way is put the Hertz mids in the dash then make some tweeter pods for the A pillars.

Or just go 2 way and stick the tweeters in the old mid locations instead. (What I'm now doing) :wall:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:07 pm 
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Location: Maidstone, Kent
Car Model: Saab 9-3 1.9 diesel Estate
True I could go two way. I always been told as I work with sound in clubs is that you always have the mid and highs head level and bass at the bottom. I was thinking about having the tweeters placed in the pillars neatly and discreet. What's your recommendations on having the amp in where the spare wheel is so its not on show?

Ben

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:12 pm 
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Location: South Wales & London
Car Model: JZW stage 5 9³ v6 Aero
crazydjben wrote:
True I could go two way. I always been told as I work with sound in clubs is that you always have the mid and highs head level and bass at the bottom. I was thinking about having the tweeters placed in the pillars neatly and discreet. What's your recommendations on having the amp in where the spare wheel is so its not on show?

Ben


False floor would probably be better so you keep the spare, I'll probably do a false floor with mine but nothing fancy.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:36 am 
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Car Model: 93 Vector Sport TiD [150]
......... And to rake this one up again

So, Newbie time again !....

Going by the diagram on page 4 outlining the 7 speaker set up can I do something on the lines of the below to breath some
life into the new Alpine 6x9's (in place of the 4" stock ones) I fitted at the weekend (And yes, they sound flatter than a flat thing in a box marked flat!)...

I notice that the rears come driectly from the head unit...

Could I (reather flippanty of me) 'simply' plumb in new speaker cables from them amp to the rears to give me a little more rear
'oomph' ?

On the down side I appreciate that I'll lose the front / rear 'fade' but will gain filling the entire cabin with some decent noise...

OR is there another way I could get the rears to give me more body without too much faffing ??

or is the above going to be equally as pointless as the doors have been filtered removing treble and mid ?

ooops, I meant to say, this is a 2005 93 Vector Sport TID with, sporting, from I can tell, the 7 speaker set up....

(Why couldn't I have the set up out of my 2002 95, that was awesome !!!!)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:09 am 
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Car Model: Saab 9-3 SportsWagon
Witts180 wrote:

...However, a second specialist were more positive and quoted me for new speakers front and rear.

...



I have had the *exact* same "advice" from my local specialist who is generally pretty offish anyway. "The head unit filters the frequencies at source so it makes no difference what speakers you fit ".

Who was the second, more helpful, specialist? and where are they? I have a 2006 9-3 estate with the rubbish 4 speaker set up. I'm looking to replace the car, but don't know when and if the price is right could be tempted to upgrade my current car. The local chap said the whole lot would have to come out and a new set up would be in excess of £700.


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 2:04 pm 
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Car Model: 9-3 1.9 TiD
Your local 'specialist' is somewhat right. However he forgot to mention inpedances, and the fact a lot of speakers would sound average at best with the amount of power supplies by the Saab unit.

The budget will always be your determining factor in how far you go with the system. In an ideal world yes, you would bypass the Saab system altogether and run an external amplified system. But you might not want a couple of Amos and a sub in your boot and might not want to spend £300+ doing this.
Have a think about what budget you'd like to work with, and then we can give you some ideas of what is feasible.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 12:19 pm 
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Car Model: Magical 9-3
My turn! have had my 2004 Aero 9-3SS for about a month, and have come to the realisation that (a) I have the 4 speaker system and (b) it really isn't very good. So it needs sorting, and I don't know a great deal about ICE. In the past I've fitted new HUs and speakers, but these were all plug and play pretty much being 80s and 90s cars, and that's about the level of my competence in this area.

My requirements - a more even sound in the whole car, decent bass but not too loud up back as my 2 year old sits there and usually I like her sleeping while I listen to the music. I guess that's what the fader is for.... I like my music but I am not after a barry boy enormous sub or bass cannon effect!

My conclusions from reading the above - please tell me if I've got this right:

1. I can fit a pair of 6x9s in the existing holes in the rear shelf using the existing cables which come direct from the head unit, and delete the factory 4-inchers. The signal from the HU via these cables is full-spectrum and these speakers will work fine, i.e. no filtering of the bass.

2. I can get a pair of component speakers for the front, and fit the bass cones in the doors and the tweeters in the dash, deleting the factory dash speakers and re-using the original cables. The cables from the head unit to the doors are already in place but I will need to get hold of or make up the final cables from the door mirror housing to the door speakers. This will work fine with decent front bass from the door speakers and treble/mid from the dash tweeters.

3. This will leave all the other sounds operating as standard (bongs etc) but the audio will be transformed.

If this is right then my next question is, what cable connectors do I need for the new door speakers?

Finally - I don't really want to go down the amp route as this is unknown territory for me, but how is this done (in simple terms!) if I need to?

ETA
Final final.... what is the RMS and peak power output of the EHU amp?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 11:38 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:54 pm
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Car Model: '55 9-3 2.0t Vector
Regarding the connectors, I can't recall if I just cut them off and used spades etc or if I modified some other crimps to fit into the Saab connectors. Defo one of the two though :)

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:12 pm
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Car Model: Saab 9-5 2.3t
curmudgeon wrote:
2. I can get a pair of component speakers for the front, and fit the bass cones in the doors and the tweeters in the dash, deleting the factory dash speakers and re-using the original cables.


I could be wrong but I would think that would leave your tweeters handling everything down to the low midrange and the door speakers just the low mids and bass. This will sound rough and quite probably destroy the tweeters as soon as you crank the volume up.

What I am saying is that the output to the dash will be filtered so the signal is passing all frequencies down to a certain point in the lower midrange or upper bass region - a region that will overstress the tweeters.

We need to find out exactly how the stock system works or just put a 3.5-4" coaxial / 2-way speaker in the dash and a decent 6.5" midwoofer in the door.

As the original speakers are apparently 2-ohm impedance it would be ideal to get replacements which are also a nominal 2-ohm, else you'll lose a little of the amplifier's power output (assuming its ability to go loud is more voltage limited than current, which it will be as it's a cheap car audio amp).

The power output isn't so relevant here. It will be low, something like 15-25W, but you won't be able to learn anything meaningful from that IMO. I would reckon, though, that it's halved or nearly halved by using 4 ohm speakers and that could mean not playing so loudly.

Simon

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 12:28 pm 
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Car Model: 9-3 2003
Hi all,

I am new to the forums and found a lot of useful information already! Thank you very much.
I want to upgrade my 7 Speaker setup as well and install an aftermarket radio because it seems that my Amp1 is dead.
From what I know know: The connector at the headunit is connected to Dash (left and right) + Rear Speakers. The middle speaker is powered by amp1 as well as the door speakers.

Will the signal be frequency shaped AFTER the head unit (Radio) in a passive way or actively in the amp?
If it is actively shaped, then it is very positive because i will have the full frequency spectra on my speakers.

cheers
thomas


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:22 pm 
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Car Model: Magical 9-3
Simonty wrote:




Cheers Simon

I think I get what you're saying but the info I have is the 4 basic speakers are 4 ohm, so no worries there, and the components have a passive crossover so I reckon I'll be OK delivering suitable freqs. to the drivers. The main worry is the so called "Premium 70" system only outputs 110 - 11k Hz so is hamstrung from the outset really. Should have it all hooked up this weekend so I'll find out won't I :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:06 am 
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Location: Newcastle/Washington (UK)
Car Model: '06 9-3ss V6 Aero
curmudgeon wrote:
Simonty wrote:




Cheers Simon

I think I get what you're saying but the info I have is the 4 basic speakers are 4 ohm, so no worries there, and the components have a passive crossover so I reckon I'll be OK delivering suitable freqs. to the drivers. The main worry is the so called "Premium 70" system only outputs 110 - 11k Hz so is hamstrung from the outset really. Should have it all hooked up this weekend so I'll find out won't I :lol:

What!? :shock: that's worse than mini disc frequency traps! Are you sure there's nothing below 110Hz, I can understand the 11k as that's just for annoying dogs :lol: but I like to be down in the teens at times. Note to self: no premium 70 system on the next car.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:13 am 
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Car Model: Magical 9-3
That's what the audio handbook says; the Premium 150 (7 speakers) goes down to 40 Hz I think.

Yes, it is a bit rubbish. The biggest laugh is the decision to use fibre optics, which introduces a lot of unnecessary complexity (and cost), the only logical reason for which must have been to minimise loss / attenuation of the audio quality from the EHU - only to fit such rubbish and poorly spec'd speakers at the end of the loop! :lol:

Not great for a car that was intended to go up against ze Germans (E46 3er, B5 A4 etc)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:27 am 
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Location: Newcastle/Washington (UK)
Car Model: '06 9-3ss V6 Aero
A lot of manufacturers are using fibre optics to save the weight & space of using more than 1 wire. That said using all those separate amps can't help.
Does the book specify the head unit or speakers going no lower than 40? If it's the speakers we can just change them = win. That said if my next car is pre-FL I'll probably change the HU too.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 4:23 pm 
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Car Model: Magical 9-3
No, it's not that specific. Anecdotally, given the success most people have had on this thread, it may well be the speakers, which would also be consistent withe the better response of the higher specced systems.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 7:57 pm 
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Car Model: Saab 9-5 2.3t
Topping out at 11Khz is understandable given the dash speakers are full range drivers, which are always a tricky compromise but... 110hz bottom end?! This is not true, at least not "in-car" when cabin gain has been factored in. There is clearly audible midbass and even a hint of deep bass in the stock system, both of which occur below 110hz.

I wonder, is the specification 110hz-11khz the -3dB figure or something else? Whatever it is, we know it needs improving as the sound is so-so :D

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 7:46 pm 
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Car Model: Saab 9-3 SS Aero Noob Stage 1
I'm currently on with a system upgrade as the standard set up is rubbish and my CD player is somewhat temperamental! I'm going around the standard system by changing the head unit and running amps etc. I have gone down the route of removing the standard ICM module and I'm fitting a new head unit in its place.I've taken the old ICM to bits,that way you are left with just a circuit board but still connected and stashed in the dash so that the standard amps etc still work for the warning sounds and the display for mpg etc still works. The new head unit then fits in its place under the vents rather than down by the ash tray where a few others have fitted it,not for any technical reason but purely because my ocd would be in overdrive if I had two head units! I've got some Focal 2 way components to go in the front and a JL audio sub to go in powered by my trusty old school Rockford amp.
I have taken a load of pics of how to do the dash part so I will post them all in a separate thread when I'm finished,I have had to come inside from the garage as I was instructed I had to watch X factor! :wall:

ETA,when I say the head unit fits in its place I mean that's the location,I need to make a trim panel to fill the gaps as the standard ICM is a daft shape.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:31 pm 
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Car Model: 2004 9-3 Aero
Right then. I need a definitive answer, before I start ripping my car apart. I have the 7 speaker system with the boggo no screen ICM, amp 1 under the seat and the woofers in the doors.

Are the rear feeds from the EHU full range or filtered? The previous owner has already fitted some 6x9s (they're poo I have some JL Audio VR690s to put in instead. But currently the sound from the ones fitted is best described as leak poor". I have a Genesis 4ch amp that'll be going in to run the 6x9s and I'll be bridging the the other two channels to run a sub. However I really don't want to go to all the trouble if the rear feed is filtered at the source. I have a JL Audio Cleansweep DSP that I want to fit, but if the feed is filtered it won't work.

I get the impression that the 4 speaker system is unfiltered, but need a clear answer on the 7 speaker set up.

Cheers


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